The shoulder division is the first to be judged. Sidewalks are swept, tables are covered with crisp tablecloths, dishes and utensils are at the ready.

A morning rain settled the dust but now it’s only cloudy.

At the People’s Republic of Swina, the judge smiles happily as she lifts the first morsel to her lips.

Several judges are simultaneously visiting neighboring tents going through the same process: Greeted warmly by the team captain, welcomed by the team (sometimes with a cheer like at Pig Stars, who won the Ms. Piggie Idol Contest). Judges get a tour of the grill, ask questions and are then seated for the moment of truth.

Finals are from 2-3:30pm.

Nobody rests easy until then. And sometimes, not even then.

The Pig Stars team greets the judge.

The Memphis BBQ Society feeds their judge.

–Jon W. Sparks