Atlanta-based Barefoot in the Pork has been turning up the heat for nine years at the WCBCC. A sweet victory came two years ago when it won Patio Porkers division.

Early this afternoon, team captain and founder Ed Richardson (above) was preparing for the team’s presentation in the Ribs division, running it like the film and TV producer that he is.

In fact it was about a decade ago when he was producing a segment for “Southern Living Presents” on the Barbecue Cooking Contest that he got consumed with the ‘cue.

He formed a team along with the show’s food correspondent, Claud Mann (TBS’s “Dinner and a Movie”). Mann has a witty account of his experience here.

Richardson says the key to his ribs starts with David Keith at Fayette Packing who provides the meat. Then, Richardson says, he gives the ribs a bath of apple cider, vinegar and mustard, “so the rub adheres to it.”

For cooking, he uses a Backwoods Smoker, and in that water pan between the fire pit and smoke pit, there is a ceremonial addition of four ounces of Jack Daniel’s. “I’m a member of the Tennessee Squires,” Richardson says, referring to the association of friends of Jack. “That’s a tribute to Tennessee.”

The team’s members are from all over. Bill Brohaugh, for example, is from the Cincinnati area. He’d been a judge since 1990 and decided to get in on the cooking part of the swinefest. It came in handy that he’s an author, because he came out with “The Grill of Victory,” an amusing insider’s view of the world of ‘cue. Between his book and Mann’s accounts, Barefoot in the Pork is one of the strikingly literary teams on the river.

–Jon W. Sparks

–Jon W. Sparks

FM100’s Ron Olson said at Thursday’s official lighting of the barbecue contest grill that “This is the best night of the year in Memphis.” He purposely did not qualify or categorize that statement. It stands on its own. If that’s so, then late morning and early afternoon on the Saturday of judging must get some props for being the best late morning/early afternoon in Memphis. This is when the teams knock themselves out to prepare the awesomely best pork in the world.

Over at Big Q’s Grillers, Quincy Scott and his team reflected on how the on-site judging, which had just happened minutes before, had gone. “They liked the sweetness and the deep smoke ring,” he said.  Kenneth Oatis Jr. chimed in: “It’s the rub and sauce, too.” Their presentation is pictured above; an unbelievably succulent sample is below.

“We work to make it different,” said Scott whose team is in its fifth year at the contest. It started out with the men’s breakfast on Saturday’s at Grace Christian Fellowship and Scott and some friends developed the team. “The contest is a big fellowship by people to cook and eat,” said team member Ken Adams.

Their shoulder entry was sublime, that hint of sweetness at first and then the smokiness while it melts in your mouth.

“We use sawdust,” Scott said. “The smaller the wood the better the flavor,” so they just went directly into the smallest wood units they could.

Scott’s custom sauce uses tomato juice, ketchup and different seasonings and makes a distinct and delicious flavor on its own. “I named it for my wife,” he said. “Sweet and Sassy.”

–Jon W. Sparks

The shoulder division is the first to be judged. Sidewalks are swept, tables are covered with crisp tablecloths, dishes and utensils are at the ready.

A morning rain settled the dust but now it’s only cloudy.

At the People’s Republic of Swina, the judge smiles happily as she lifts the first morsel to her lips.

Several judges are simultaneously visiting neighboring tents going through the same process: Greeted warmly by the team captain, welcomed by the team (sometimes with a cheer like at Pig Stars, who won the Ms. Piggie Idol Contest). Judges get a tour of the grill, ask questions and are then seated for the moment of truth.

Finals are from 2-3:30pm.

Nobody rests easy until then. And sometimes, not even then.

The Pig Stars team greets the judge.

The Memphis BBQ Society feeds their judge.

–Jon W. Sparks

–Jon W. Sparks

–Jon W. Sparks

–Jon W. Sparks

–Jon W. Sparks